Domaine Begude, Le Petit Ange, Chardonnay, 2007, Vin de Pays d’Oc, France 13%
About five years ago, British couple Catherine and James Kinglake bought Domaine Begude, near the town of Limoux. This is France’s deep south, bordering the Pyrenees; an undulating, achingly beautiful and frequently wild landscape. Given this southern location it would appear unusual to find that Limoux is dominated by white grapes. This is primarily because this region is the coolest in southern France due to high altitude and hence particularly suited to Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. The grapes enjoy a long cool growing season, with chilly nights a welcome respite from the intense heat of a summer’s day. Begude’s vineyards are 400 metres above sea level and run on organic lines with some additional biodynamic methods.
The Kinglake’s young daughter, Millie, is the inspiration behind Le Petit Ange (Little Angel). It’s labelled up as Chardonnay but it also has 15% Chenin Blanc added for a bit more tangy zestiness and interest. A pale golden straw colour, it has a fresh citrus nose with hints of apple and pears. I am particularly struck by the balance and purity of fresh, zippy citrus and pear fruit on the palate. The racy acidity is down to that added splash of Chenin Blanc.
This is an un-wooded style so there are no oak effects to blot out the wine’s character and it finishes very dry and clean. This is wine made in a contemporary style, bottled under screwcap with understated modern labelling. The obvious care with which the wines are made is a delight.
Delicious drinking now, it can be kept for two or three years, which rewards the patient with some honeyed development. This wine is excellent value, having an elegance that is rare in wines at twice the price. Chablis lovers will find much to admire here. Le Petit Ange makes for perfect summer drinking, as an aperitif, or to buddy-up with a wide range of seafood. Preferably outside!
I’ve bought and written about Domaine Begude's wines regularly since first discovering them in 2005; they are consistent every year and now receive regular raves in the national press.
The 2007 is only £5.99 in Majestic if you buy two. If you hurry you might find some of the 2006 vintage left at the same price – so why not buy one of each and compare?